USB Hub board

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby Sorgelig » Sun Nov 04, 2018 2:47 pm

You've measured wrong!
Power supplies current are rated on output voltage. PSU with 2A means on 5V. No one care how much it draws on 110V - it will be of course very small current.

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby JackBurton » Sun Nov 04, 2018 3:36 pm

Sorgelig wrote:You've measured wrong!
Power supplies current are rated on output voltage. PSU with 2A means on 5V. No one care how much it draws on 110V - it will be of course very small current.


Dang it, you're right. I fixed my previous post. The correct current is 1.1A @ 5V = 5.5W.

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby azazel1125 » Mon Nov 19, 2018 3:58 pm

Hi, I was looking for some advice...

I have just ordered some USB Hub boards from PCBWay and I have had a question back asking

"Ref attached screenshot, the pointed out place have plated slot, but no soldermask opening there on top side.
Should we add soldermask opening there ? "

I am not sure what my response should be.

Can anyone help?

TIA
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Re: USB Hub board

Postby Sorgelig » Mon Nov 19, 2018 4:36 pm

it's on purpose, to prevent USB connector touch the 5V line. Option with 5V connector is soldered on the bottom where solder mask is present.

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby azazel1125 » Mon Nov 19, 2018 5:37 pm

Thanks for the quick reply Sorgelig
Now my (your) boards are on the way!!!

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby gojira54 » Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:57 am

I'm after some advice - I'm going to start assembling USB hubs soon, a couple of questions to those who are are in the know please;
LED 15 - when the USB hub is powered but not connected this indicates that the FE2.1 IC has survived the install and is operating OK?
The USB cable should be wired like this?

Image

Can I test the USB hubs by wiring on a USB type A standard cable and plugging into a PC?

Any help appreciated =]
Please do not take it personal, my lawyer has policies

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby Sorgelig » Sun Nov 25, 2018 5:15 pm

gojira54 wrote:LED 15 - when the USB hub is powered but not connected this indicates that the FE2.1 IC has survived the install and is operating OK?

yes.

gojira54 wrote:The USB cable should be wired like this?

cannot check D+/D-, but in general it's correct.

gojira54 wrote:Can I test the USB hubs by wiring on a USB type A standard cable and plugging into a PC?

yes. it's generic USB hub.

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby gojira54 » Tue Nov 27, 2018 4:54 pm

Thanks for the info =]
Please do not take it personal, my lawyer has policies

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby lolof » Mon Dec 10, 2018 2:51 pm

I've build the USB hub and have a question.
When I plug an USB device like keyboard and mouse the Green LED is on. It's working as it should with keyboard mouse and joypad :-)

When should be the amber LED on ? It's never lighting.
How can I check if the LED is working with the MiSTer ? LED were checked with multimeter and they are OK.

Thanks

EDIT : Found the reply here : viewtopic.php?f=117&t=33428#p344448

Thank you

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby Sorgelig » Mon Dec 10, 2018 3:50 pm

It's unclear when amber LEDs should lit. I think it's ok not to solder amber LEDs.

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby Poobah » Thu Dec 27, 2018 12:47 am

So, I waded through the FE2.1 datasheet and the USB 2.0 device specifications
It appears that the amber LEDs should only light when there is an error condition or an over-current issue.

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby Sorgelig » Thu Dec 27, 2018 4:39 am

Poobah wrote:So, I waded through the FE2.1 datasheet and the USB 2.0 device specifications
It appears that the amber LEDs should only light when there is an error condition or an over-current issue.

It's clear this LED will lit in case of error, but it's unclear what kind of error it can show except the over-current. Over-current is impossible as there is no VBUS controlling chip used and 5V of USB is connected directly to 5V of power supply.

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby zerohimself » Fri Jan 04, 2019 12:41 am

I seem to be having a very high failure rate with these.. 1/3
It seems that either port 4 fails in one of 2 ways
failure 1: (either i plug the device in, and after init the hub goes dead, or port 4 just doesn't work)
failure 2: all of the LED's light up a small amount upon powering, and then the chip does nothing

I will update, once i isolate the source of the issue.

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby Sorgelig » Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:42 am

This is weird.
You are the first who report it.
I've soldered several hub boards - all are ok. And as i see some people selling it assembled.

Probably something wrong in your assembling or some component (XTAL?) is out of spec.

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby Sorgelig » Tue Jan 08, 2019 9:34 am

Now using 5 gamepads + 1 keyboard. Totally 6 ports out of 7 are used. 7th port is also used but as a power source for TOSLINK decoder.
So, it's pretty much good achievement for picky USB host on DE10-nano.
It wasn't so straight - i had to find correct ports for every gamepad to make them recognized on boot.

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby zerohimself » Mon Jan 14, 2019 4:03 pm

Ok, found my issue.. I had different solder bridges at a microscopic level (i didn't notice them on the first 3 inspections at 10x) causing issues. Once they were removed all the hub boards were good to go!!

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby leejsmith » Thu Jan 17, 2019 9:36 am

These USB boards are pushing my skills to the limit with the equipment I have and so far I have completed 3 out of 10 and one I made a complete mess off. How are most people connecting them to 5v with a soldered wire, via the power jack or just using the OTG port (I guess this limited the current ?)

Even with a stencil it would put way too much solder paste on and I had to wick shorts away so I brought some of the amtec sticky flux and a finer tip to drag solder the pins and this is a lot better. Once the chip is in place with no shorts under my cheapo usb microscope the rest is easy enough and I only had a few issues with green leds not working and just needed another pass with flux and the fine soldering tip.

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby Sorgelig » Thu Jan 17, 2019 11:14 am

leejsmith wrote:How are most people connecting them to 5v with a soldered wire, via the power jack or just using the OTG port (I guess this limited the current ?)

I solder the wire to power jack under the board. This is most compact and easier way to supply 5V to USB hub. Of course it's not for generic user.
Don't draw 5V from micro USB connector - you will get a lot of problems with USB as the USB power is provided by tiny weak chip tending to rise over-current flag. So, getting 5V from micro USB is really bad idea.

leejsmith wrote:Even with a stencil it would put way too much solder paste on and I had to wick shorts away so I brought some of the amtec sticky flux and a finer tip to drag solder the pins and this is a lot better. Once the chip is in place with no shorts under my cheapo usb microscope the rest is easy enough and I only had a few issues with green leds not working and just needed another pass with flux and the fine soldering tip.

If you use soldering iron then i don't suggest to use the soldering paste. Use solder wire. I use it myself and solder all boards for MiSTer. USB hub chip in TSOP case is a little tricky as it requires match on both X and Y axis. Paste can be worse as it may go deep under and provoke the bridges if heat/flux is not enough.

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby leejsmith » Thu Jan 17, 2019 12:31 pm

Sorgelig wrote:
leejsmith wrote:How are most people connecting them to 5v with a soldered wire, via the power jack or just using the OTG port (I guess this limited the current ?)

I solder the wire to power jack under the board. This is most compact and easier way to supply 5V to USB hub. Of course it's not for generic user.
Don't draw 5V from micro USB connector - you will get a lot of problems with USB as the USB power is provided by tiny weak chip tending to rise over-current flag. So, getting 5V from micro USB is really bad idea.

leejsmith wrote:Even with a stencil it would put way too much solder paste on and I had to wick shorts away so I brought some of the amtec sticky flux and a finer tip to drag solder the pins and this is a lot better. Once the chip is in place with no shorts under my cheapo usb microscope the rest is easy enough and I only had a few issues with green leds not working and just needed another pass with flux and the fine soldering tip.

If you use soldering iron then i don't suggest to use the soldering paste. Use solder wire. I use it myself and solder all boards for MiSTer. USB hub chip in TSOP case is a little tricky as it requires match on both X and Y axis. Paste can be worse as it may go deep under and provoke the bridges if heat/flux is not enough.



I used my hot air station with the solder paste and then my iron to clean up after. The AMTECH NC-559-V2-TF flux has saved this work for me. I have used it to clean up the work and now I have 8 working boards. I will clean them in my ultra sonic bath before sale.

What about using the power socket on the usb board as the main power source and then soldering a barrel lead on the usb board to pass power to the de10. this way the end user will not need to solder anything.

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby Sorgelig » Thu Jan 17, 2019 5:27 pm

leejsmith wrote:What about using the power socket on the usb board as the main power source and then soldering a barrel lead on the usb board to pass power to the de10. this way the end user will not need to solder anything.

I've just wrote how i connect it myself. Of course for generic user there are 2 alternative places to install power socket and use split cable to connect the 5V to DE10-nano and USB hub.

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby leejsmith » Thu Jan 17, 2019 5:48 pm

Sorgelig wrote:
leejsmith wrote:What about using the power socket on the usb board as the main power source and then soldering a barrel lead on the usb board to pass power to the de10. this way the end user will not need to solder anything.

I've just wrote how i connect it myself. Of course for generic user there are 2 alternative places to install power socket and use split cable to connect the 5V to DE10-nano and USB hub.



I have ordered some parts so will give my idea a go. Am i correct in thinking the brass supports on the bottom of the de10 are not long enough for the power socket on the usb hub ?

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby Sorgelig » Thu Jan 17, 2019 6:17 pm

Right. You need longer standoffs with power socket.

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby leejsmith » Sat Jan 19, 2019 2:36 pm

This is how I am thinking of doing the usb hub board. I moved the brass stand off from the de10 and used them on the usb hub with some feet. The usb is on a header and the power is soldered to the jack and then passes it through to the de10.

This is then plug in with no solder required.

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby Sorgelig » Sat Jan 19, 2019 7:58 pm

It's better to solder the power socket on other alternative place. So both power sockets will be on the same side.

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Re: USB Hub board

Postby leejsmith » Sun Jan 20, 2019 2:42 am

Sorgelig wrote:It's better to solder the power socket on other alternative place. So both power sockets will be on the same side.


I can see that now I have it all connected.


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