My Retrobirght and Restoration Experience 1

[Atari74user]

I decided to Retrobright my STE with decent results

Like paradroid90, I have been sorting out my little studio, and have been refurbishing and upgrading equipment along the way. One thing I have been doing is Retrobrighting some gear, from sliders on my Roland VS1680, Atari peripherals, and my Atari ST case. I personally wanted to brighten everything up, so this was a concious choice after reading so many threads, reading about it's potential lasting effects, peoples own opinion etc... However my opinion, if it is something you want to do, read up on it and educate yourself. Weigh up the pros and cons and do it, if it is something you don't want to do, then of course don't.

My first experiment I tried a mixture of spray painting and Retrobrighting my spare STFM. Here are my results:

1. Firstly cleaned the case, glued up some cracks and began to mask up the top case

Atari Before Spray Top.jpg

2. Masked up the bottom case

Atari Before Respray Bottom.jpg

3. Found a spraypaint that seemed to be ideal, read this somewhere too. Painters Touch Stone Grey

4. Sprayed up the top case

Atari After Spray Top.jpg

5. Sprayed up the botton case, not bad

Atari After Respray Bottom.jpg

6. Put it altogether and what do you get, hmmm, a dis-coloured keyboard

Atari Almost Done.jpg

7. Mixed up some Retrobright, using an old blender keeping to this recipe:
- 500ml of Hydrogen Peroxide 12%
- Heaped tea spoon of Xanthan Gum
- 2 table spoons of Glycerine
- Post a 1 or 2 minute blend
- Added a flat table spoon of Oxy and blended again for 1 minute
- Dismantled the keyboard and applied the Retrobright with a 1" paintbrush, and applied plenty of patience re-applying so not to dry out

Retrobrighted Keyboard.jpg

8. Put it altogether and...not bad. Not a perfect match, and the finish is not quite silky smooth, but not bad

Resprayed Spare Atari ST.jpg

[FedePede04]

it look really nice
did you wrap the case in plastic film, and put the keys in a plastic bag ,i have hear that it should keep the retrobright from drying out?

[exxos]

I tried a few keys a couple months ago, seemed to work pretty well, though it looks to me like it fetches the colour of the of the stuff aswell ? Stuff doesn't look grey so much anymore but more white to me.

I have tried various "mixes" so far, really was just trying to find other solutions, but not so much yet.

[Atari74user]

it look really nice
did you wrap the case in plastic film, and put the keys in a plastic bag ,i have hear that it should keep the retrobright from drying out?

Thank you very much! No I didn't actually use cling film or any plastic film, I did read about that, but thought I would paint the Retrobright on. I kept re-applying the Retrobright in about 30 to 40 minute intervals so not to dry out. I have found the biggest issue with Retrobright drying out using the ingredients I did (which essentially serve to simply thicken the Hydrogen Peroxide), is that it is a pain to clean off.

[Atari74user]

I tried a few keys a couple months ago, seemed to work pretty well, though it looks to me like it fetches the colour of the of the stuff aswell ? Stuff doesn't look grey so much anymore but more white to me.

I have tried various "mixes" so far, really was just trying to find other solutions, but not so much yet.

Me too, I debated this for so long, and thought I would just try it. I am quite happy, I have seen it yellow slightly again, so I re-applied. I am not expecting miracles, but I have now dust covered everything too.

I think there is a touch of truth in what you say. I think perhaps going with a reasonaby soft percentage of Hydrogen Peroxide (10 to 12%) and taking the slow route of patience and re-applying may help? That was my logic anyway!

[exxos]

I only did a bit of a case and a few keys to see how it goes over next few months. Seems to be some people saying the yellowing returns, so thought I could do a test on that and see how it went. I used the BBlonde stuff, I think its to thick overall, probably just needs watering down a bit.

I have tried some similar stuff I have but did not have much luck so far. I was trying to go with soaking in liquid without sunlight, but it doesn't seem to work. I didn't wrap my stuff up, just one coat and left in sun for a couple hours. I did take some images *somewhere* of before and after, I should probably take some more to see how it compares.. If I can find where I put the image, I will post them here. I think this is a interesting topic overall as its not something many have done.

[Atari74user]

I think it is quite an interesting topic, of course for those that like to restore. I have seen a slight return, it did'nt look right, and then discovered others had seen that too. I will see if the dust covers will work in that area too, maybe not, but every little helps! I almost went for the BBlonde stuff. I actually turned to eBay and have bought a few bottles from APCPure in either 500 ml or 1 litre bottles: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Food-Grade-Hy ... 20ed36a68a

This Hydrogen Peroxide is thin, hence why the Xanthan Gum, Glycerine and all that works OK in terms of application in my case. Yes, sunshine was the other ingredient too, and a toothbrush to get rid of the Retrobright during cleaning!

I have actually gone a bit mad with Retrobright, going as far as Retrobrighting my mother's yellowing white blender, and some Nike Air Max trainers Seriously good results as things stand, so it appears not a one off, but as you allude, time will tell.

I actually did quite a lot of research on Hydrogen Peroxide, if you want Richard Hammond white teeth, this is the stuff you want in your toothpaste, any other ingredient is a bit of a gimmick, as this is also used as a solution for teeth whitening. Don't go gargling it though!

[exxos]

Well I wrote a reply, and tried to upload some images and just got "ERROR HTTP error." then "connection timed out" and my post vanished

[exxos]

Well I wrote a reply, and tried to upload some images and just got "ERROR HTTP error." then "connection timed out" and my post vanished

[exxos]

Try again..

F10 key was done, top left of the keyboard, and the 4 keys on the top row of the numerical pad.

DSCN2319.JPG

DSCN2318.JPG

DSCN2317.JPG

DSCN2316.JPG

I wasn't doing a "good job" of this either, just paste on, leave in sun for a bit. Its gone a bit patchy, but not suprised. Might get a 1L bottle and try the whole lot if we ever get some sun when I am actually not out working

[exxos]

Found 3 of them

I remember now, I tried some other stuff I had first, it did a pretty good job, but didn't get the "stubborn stains" out. This was with some stain remover liquid I had. I don't think it was done in the sun. I can't find the "before" images

DSCN1096.JPG

DSCN1095.JPG

DSCN1094.JPG

[Atari74user]

Try again..

I wasn't doing a "good job" of this either, just paste on, leave in sun for a bit. Its gone a bit patchy, but not suprised. Might get a 1L bottle and try the whole lot if we ever get some sun when I am actually not out working

Good for experimenting with the 're-yellowing' over a period, and of course any blotching can easily be remedied post testing it out as you have. I see what you mean on the Mega's main unit, perhaps re-application and using that slow method. I was patient over about a 5 to 6 hour period, maybe a little bit more. I basically allowed myself one day, but if I re-call correctly, it spilled into the next day due to starting in the afternoon. So I did enjoy a lot of 'builders breaks'.

Not working, sunshine...ahhhh paradise, there's a hopeful weekend coming up, long one too

[exxos]

Good for experimenting with the 're-yellowing' over a period, and of course any blotching can easily be remedied post testing it out as you have. Not working, sunshine...ahhhh paradise, there's a hopeful weekend coming up, long one too

Yep, I will do some more testing next sunny day. The keys don't look as white as they did to start with, at least from what I can remember. I will give some keys another dose and take more images.. I must have the "before" pics somewhere, but not so much to see other than it was pretty bad to start with.

[Atari74user]

...and that's what I noticed first too, the keys re-yellowing! I guess the original state has a bearing, my original ST case, now on my spare STFM was a lot more yellow, hence why I thought I would experiment spray painting that one, and Retrobrighting my main ST.

[KLund1]

Whenever I have tried to use the 'retro-brite' formula on many ST cases, I always get the 'blooming' effect, where there are patches of whiter areas over the gray. So I have pretty much abandoned the reto-brite for ST cases. I go for the spray paint, with a simigloss Lacquer for wear. But a good run through the dishwasher first, before painting.
But it works great on the ST keyboards!! (and all 8-bits)
In the USA it is heard to find H2O2 above 3%. But there is a very good substitute, and it is already in a cream form, so no need for measuring, and mixing!!
It is called Developer and it comes in 10%, 20%, 30%, 40% H2O2. You get it from any Beauty Supply stores. And it's pretty cheap. $8-10 USD a gallon.
All you have to do is pour what you need, add some Oxy, mircowave a few seconds, paint on liberally with a brush, put item in the sun.
I do not wrap items in clear kling-wrap, as that squeezes some of the cream off the unit. I cover with in a clear plastic box (Rubbermaid or the like). I re-apply cream as needed. Usually only twice is needed. total time is about 3 hours.
Please wear gloves! The 40% will eat your skin off quick!

[Atari74user]

That's interesting to hear! I am may try lacqueing too, haven't tried that yet!

I have been fortunate as I haven't seen any blooming or blotching on the stuff I have done, including Atari stuff. Possibly down to the 'food grade' Hydrogen Peroxide I have been using which was a 12% mix, as opposed to the 'cosmetic grade' H202? That's a guess, as I never went for any other 'alternative'. Ah yes, just Googled Developer, I see it comes as a cream and a liquid. It's interesting the different types of densities you can get, and what affect that may have?

[Robson]

Whenever I have tried to use the 'retro-brite' formula on many ST cases, I always get the 'blooming' effect, where there are patches of whiter areas over the gray. So I have pretty much abandoned the reto-brite for ST cases. I go for the spray paint...!

Totally agree, same thing here. It's just doesn't work for me on the case, so I sent one of the F keys to a company to colour match it so I have 2 cans of atari sprays.

With this ST on the picture I used cream peroxide on the keyboard only.

[Atari74user]

Totally agree, same thing here. It's just doesn't work for me on the case, so I sent one of the F keys to a company to colour match it so I have 2 cans of atari sprays.
With this ST on the picture I used cream peroxide on the keyboard only.

Wow, I think I have been quite fortunate, but great idea with the colour matching paint!

[exxos]

While there is "some" sun about at the moment..

2.jpg

1.jpg

[exxos]

Sun - Rain - Sun - Rain - Sun - Rain - Sun....

Overall, the yellowing went off the keys 1,2,3 on the numerical pad after about 2 hours.

Its hard to tell, but looks like where I managed to bleach the colours whiter before, seems to be evening out now.

I have watered the peroxide down a bit to try and make it stay wet longer. Also put cling-film over it, but not really sure it helps.

3.jpg

I am going to leave it in the sun a couple more hours (sun permitting) to see what happens. I suspect the colour starts to go over 2-3 hours "exposure".

[qq1975b]

I think that to avoid yellowing again you must varnish it (matt not bright). It will avoid oxygen contact again and then it will stay in good shape colour. If not, with time it will yellow again.


Edit: Matt not mate luckily Exxos corrected me

[exxos]

I think that to avoid yellowing again you must varnish it (mate not bright). It will avoid oxygen contact again and then it will stay in good shape colour. If not, with time it will yellow again.

Possibly. Though once I have cleaned it all up , I am actually going to leave it like that and not do anything else to it. As I want to take images each month to compare if the yellowing is returning or not.. So this experiment is going to be doing for some months

[qq1975b]

I think that to avoid yellowing again you must varnish it (mate not bright). It will avoid oxygen contact again and then it will stay in good shape colour. If not, with time it will yellow again.

Possibly. Though once I have cleaned it all up , I am actually going to leave it like that and not do anything else to it. As I want to take images each month to compare if the yellowing is returning or not.. So this experiment is going to be doing for some months

I can confirm it will return....

[qq1975b]

I think that to avoid yellowing again you must varnish it (mate not bright). It will avoid oxygen contact again and then it will stay in good shape colour. If not, with time it will yellow again.

Possibly. Though once I have cleaned it all up , I am actually going to leave it like that and not do anything else to it. As I want to take images each month to compare if the yellowing is returning or not.. So this experiment is going to be doing for some months

I can confirm it will return....

but it depends on the machine:
On a TT I have, it hasn't returned
On a STe neither
On a Mega ST: Only returned (strongly) on keys
On an Amiga 4000 front: Absolutly...same for keyboard but not keys that stay white
On an Amiga 500: it returned too...

I don't remember more examples

[exxos]

I can confirm it will return....

Any clues as to how long it will take to return ?