Here is the test bench for the USB HUB:
I did 15 boards
- 12 Perfect (all sold)
- 1 which is working fine now but I had issue with it (so I reduced the price to $35) (first attempt failed to solder directly the USB cable to the broad failed I had to repair the traces after).
- 1 Partially working (one USB port dead again because of the soldering of the Fe 2.1)
- 1 Destroy beyond repair (again soldering of the Fe 2.1 failed)
- 8 Shipped Saturday
- 1 will be shipped on Monday
- Missing some cables for the 3 others
For me it is the most tricky board to make because of the Fe 2.1 but the rest is not too bad.
-> The USB port:
- They obviously need to be extra secure on the board so I used the required amount of soldering here, without going crazy you definitely don't want to be cheap with the soldering.
- You also have to pay attention to the alignment of the ports they can be easily misaligned.
-> The cables (USB/power):
- They take time also to be done (I special bought a crimping tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4 ... UTF8&psc=1
- I use solder free for the cable because the USB cable are too weak to be soldered directly to the board and that offers some degree of flexibility if people want to use other kind of cables (but you have to have a crimping tool).
-> I struggled a bit with the wire management. I did not want to put to much pressure for the USB port of the Nano but at the same time I did not want to have to much wire hang, so I routed the wire with extra length with the help of the USB ports.
For the V1.1 if it happens
, I wish to have the option to have also a DC Power Jack Socket (2.1mm x 5.5mm Barrel) mounted on the PCB facing the same direction as the power Jack Socket of the Nano. Also I'd like to see the USB port closer to the micro USB of the Namo (Sacrificing the USB HUB port right below would be fine 6 is already plenty).
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